Exploring the Medina

The big blue archway at the entrance to the medina called the Bab R'cif

                Today was an exhausting but adventurous day. I awoke at 7 am to help Mehdi with the morning treatments. After we finished I took an hour and a half nap before finally eating breakfast about noon. I had some toast with strawberry jam and an orange. The orange was so big I almost couldn’t finish it. I tried contacting the American, Matt, that I had met last night, but it appeared his phone was off so I left a message stating that Mehdi and I were soon headed to the Medina. About 1:30 pm Mehdi and I took a cab as far into the south side of the Medina as we could. I took out plenty of cash to pay Mehdi back as well as enough to potentially buy a few things today. We began our long adventure by heading thru the large blue archway, Bab R'Cif. Almost instantly we were harassed by several young men asking if we wanted a guided tour of the Medina. Despite Mehdi’s best efforts to ward them off, we eventually ended up following one to the tanneries. The smells were not nearly as bad as I had imagined. The tour books describe the smells surrounding the tanneries as pungent because of the pigeon poop and livestock urine used to treat the leather. We entered a leather shop and climbed a tight winding staircase to the top of the building where we could overlook the tannery. A Moroccan man gave us a very prepared speech about the tanning process in English, but I still struggled to understand all of what he said due to the quickness and lack of pronunciation of his speech. I picked up on some of the things I already knew such as the pigeon poop and urine used to soften the hides and the different natural ingredients used to dye the leathers different colors. On our way back down the building overlooking the tannery, we were walked thru several leather shops on each floor. I really like some of the embroidered slippers but I was hesitant to buy because buying anything in the medina involves a drawn out process of bartering and I wasn’t feeling up to it quite yet. I also didn’t want to have to make Mehdi barter for me either, though I’m sure he would have done a fine job being a native Moroccan.

A view of the dying vats insdie the tannery

A view inside a leather shop at some of the beautiful slippers and purses. The big round things are seat cushions.

Another view inside the leather shop. Look at all the purses! That's Mehdi on the left.

A look inside a shop renting beautiful thrones
and accessories for weddings 

               Next we found our way back into the maze of the Medina. You could buy anything in the medina, from hand made goods created using ancient techniques to modern European style clothing and electronics. There were many leather shops filled with dyed leather slippers, purses, seat cushions, and everything else you could imagine. There were numerous stores renting beautiful copper and silver thrones and accessories for weddings. There were clothing stores selling everything from traditional daily clothing to modern European clothing, traditional wedding dresses to belly dancer costumes. We also passed by several ancient mosques with beautiful architicture and zellij (tilework), though I was not allowed to enter. I had to take pictures from the entrances. As we neared the northwest corner of the medina, we walked through streets filled with stands selling fresh produce, sweets, and packaged food products, as well as butcher shops selling fresh meat. The poultry butchers even had the birds in cages or tied down to cages in front of their shops so you could pick out your bird and they would slaughter it for you.  

A view inside Karaouiyine Mosque, a large ancient mosque in the heart of the medina

Another view inside the Karaouiyine Mosque. Look at all the archways!

Following Mehdi down a street with many stands selling fresh produce

There are stray cats everywhere in the Medina. Some are friendly and approach anyone stopping to eat some food. Others just scurry down the alleys and try to stay out of sight. I saw several nursing queens on the sides of the streets in the medina. This little kitten purches contently at a fresh fruit stand.

                A we headed back down some new streets and I again contemplated buying some slippers, a traditional Moroccan robe for use in a native Arabian costume, or even some traditional Moroccan food from a street vendor. If I came upon a saddlery selling something I could use in a native Arabian costume, I would for sure stop in and seriously consider buying. If I didn’t end up buying anything today, there was always next weekend that I could come back and try some bartering skills. At least I had seen a lot of what the medina has to offer as well as see the conditions the donkeys and mules I would be soon treating work in.

Four donkeys with their owner tracking down one of the wider streets in the medina

As we walked my legs began to burn. The whole medina is built on a hill so you are always either going up or down hill. With the miles of walking we did, my legs got a serious workout and I knew I would be sore tomorrow. Finally we neared the point where the taxi had dropped us and we passed back under the giant blue archway. Mehdi attempted to catch a cab but finally decided to walk. As we walked he asked if I understood the conversations he had had with several taxi drivers that offered us a ride. I did not and he explained that it was because of me that the taxi cab drivers were asking twice as much as a normal fare because I was obviously a tourist and could afford it. Mehdi had attempted several times to demand a fair price of 10 dirham, but they all wanted 20 to 40 dirham. Not knowing exactly how far it was to walk back to the American Fondouk, I would have paid the 20 dirham, but instead I followed Mehdi and continued my extended workout by walking an additional 3 km back to the American Fondouk, half of which was up hill.

A typical view down just one of the many maze of streets in the medina

Upon arriving back at the Fondouk, I retreated to the villa and collapsed on my bed for nearly 2 hours. At 8 pm I helped with the evening treatments of the in hospital patients retreating back to the villa to talk to my parents and husband before going to bed. I needed to be ready at 7 am tomorrow for morning rounds and treatments. The doors of the Fondouk would open at 8am. Though I did not buy anything today, I did get a good look at the medina as well as a very good workout. Though I never did hear from Matt, I am excited to return to the medina another day as well as experience my first full day of work at the Fondouk tomorrow. Tomorrow I will post more pictures from today as well as describe my experiences in the hospital!

A working mule waits for his next load to transport

Look at the beautiful achitecture outside the Fondouk el-Nejjarine, home of the Musee du Bius (Museum of wood)